Protect your good times

Backyard swimming pools have enjoyed a steady rise in popularity as a great way to cool off and relax in a private setting. A swimming pool can be a great focus for family, friends and entertaining. As great as owning a swimming pool can be there are things to consider if you’re thinking of “taking the plunge” and getting one installed for your home.

What kind of pool do you want?

You will need to decide if you want an above ground or an in-ground pool. Both have advantages and special considerations. Usually the main factor in this decision is cost. A perfectly fine above ground pool can be installed for under $1500 while an in-ground pool will cost at least 8 times as much depending on size and location. Appearance can be another factor. Generally speaking an in-ground pool is more attractive to most people than an above ground pool. Conversely, above ground pools are far more attractive than in years past. The look of fake wood slats and such is pretty much a thing of the past. Liner choices too are much wider and more attractive for an above ground pool than they used to be. Generally speaking, an above ground pool will cost less to operate. Because they hold less water they use smaller pumps and are a little easier on chemicals. Just for yucks consider an in-ground pool has a lifetime of up to forty years. The average above ground pool is in operation for about five years.

I want an in-ground pool, how about that?

In addition to the factors above an in-ground pool allows far more flexibility in design and options. Your budget is really the only limit on what you can do with an in-ground pool design. Negative edges, waterfalls, natural rock formations, swim in bars, attached spas, you name it and with enough coin of the realm you can have it. Even standard designs and forms can yield a very attractive backyard feature at a relatively reasonable price.

I’ve decided an above ground pool is the way to go.

Above ground pools have come a long way. Much improved wall designs and liners make them much less the eyesore that kept prospective buyers away. Add on decking, whether prefab or custom built, can make the above ground pool a very attractive focus for summer fun and for considerably less money. Pool accessory manufacturers have gotten the message and offer many products for above ground pools that used to be available only to in-ground owners; basket ball and volley ball games, solar blanket reels and even pool slides!

The nitty gritty

Installing a pool also has some serious considerations, safety and liability being paramount. Most non-rural areas will require a building permit and mandate safety fencing for the pool area as well as limited access to the pool. Local ordinances vary so make sure you know what’s in place in your town. Wherever you live securing a pool from unauthorized entry should be a no-brainer.

Real estate values can also be an important consideration. Realty research shows that a pool is neutral factor in a home’s value. Potential buyers are about evenly divided on whether a pool is a good or bad thing in any given property. Research on the type of pool is sketchy but remember, an above ground pool is removable an in-ground is not.

Hopefully this will help in making a decision on the pool of your dreams. I can only hit the high points so make sure you do your homework and think carefully about your decision. Take your time, do it right and you’ll have a swimming pool that will pay big dividends in fun, relaxation and entertainment.

Swimming pools can be the best asset of our houses. It does not only provides as an avenue for relaxation but it also somehow beautifies our house. A backyard with swimming pool enhances the appeal of the house. Also, backyard swimming pools are good venues for parties and other events held inside the house. It’s a good place to hold birthdays, watch fireworks during new year, hold family reunions, or just chill out with the family.

Because of this, making swimming pools beautiful is becoming a must already. Many people are enhancing their swimming pools in different ways to match the desired ambiance of the house and the yard. Some also wants to enhance their pools to improve their relaxing effect.

In enhancing swimming pools, it’s best to maximize all the available pool supplies in the market today. It may be a little costly to do this but it will be very worthy at all.

One of the best ways to enhance your swimming pool is by putting nice pool paint on your pool. Pool paint is a very good option in case you want your swimming pool to match your house themes. There are wide varieties of pool paint available in pool stores and comes in different color mixes that will surely fit you style. All that’s left for you to do is to do some creative picking on which color to use.

An alternative to pool paint would be pool liners, which are also good in beautifying your swimming pool. Pool liner come in different colors and patterns that will also be a good match to your poolscape.

It is also a good idea to install pool heaters on your swimming pool. Not only does it add comfort to your swimming pools, but also it gives you healing benefits, especially for back aches and tired muscles. Pool heaters are not so expensive as it may seem, you just need to look for a pool store that has cheap pool heater parts and have them installed.

Also, if you want to keep your swimming pool as beautiful as it is over the time, good maintenance is very important. It is very necessary to always put pool covers and pool nets to protect your swimming pool from unwanted objects like falling leaves and branches.

It is never difficult to have a good swimming pool at home. All you have to do is to use proper pool supplies and your swimming pool will be the best pool ever.

Summer is a welcome treat, especially if you live anywhere that gets a lot snow over the winter! So when summer arrives, getting the pool open and ready is probably your highest priority, and your family and friends are likely already lined up with their swimsuits on!

Starting your pool up for the season

When starting up the pool for the first time in the season, you’ll need to drain any water in the pool along with any antifreeze you used to keep the equipment free of ice. Then you can refill it, adding the chemicals necessary to continue keeping it clean for the summer.

Keeping your pool clean throughout the season

Throughout the swimming season you should be brushing the sides of your pool to loosen debris that collects there, you should be reversing your pumping system to help clean out any build up, and you should be vacuuming the water and skimming the surface. This will keep your pool in tip top shape through out the season and it will make your pool an enjoyable place to be near.

Preparing your pool for winter

As winter approaches, and after everyone reluctantly takes that one final swim, you need to prepare it to sit dormant for the few months that you won’t be able to use it. Drain the water below the freezing line, drain the water out of the plumbing, and filling the pump and pipes with antifreeze. Finally, cover it for the winter. And, if you get a lot of snow where you live, be sure to mark out where your pool is in case snow builds up and hides your pool, which creates a potential hazard that someone could fall in.

Working on your pool can be a lot of work, but the time and expense involved in maintaining it is much less than the cost associated with repairing it if it does fall into disrepair. And, the squeals of delight from the children as they show off to their friends will make the few moments of work in the spring and autumn not seem so bad.

How to Open or Start a swimming pool in the Spring

Starting or opening up a swimming pool is pretty simple. But it does require a bit of work and a couple of extra hands. Honestly, it’s best to start a week or two before you want to open it for not only best results, but also to take some of the “last minute” stress away.

No matter whether you have an above ground pool or an inground pool, the basic work is the same or similar. Follow these simple steps with details & tips:

Remove all the leaves, dirt & debris from the winter cover before removing it. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen people let all of the winter mess just go right into the pool! Talk about extra work. I’ve seen really clean “winterized” water become black with the “tea” & debris from the winter cover. Spend a couple of half-hours scooping the excess & accumulated leaves from the top of the cover. Remember, it’s not just last fall’s leaves; it’s the spring pollen, tree “helicopters” & pine needles too.

Remove all winter & ice expansion plugs (Gizzmos). You can’t start the pump & filter system if water isn’t flowing from pool to filter & back! Be sure to replace the respective directional returns (eyeballs), suction grates (usually used on lower suction fittings), Circulator fittings, etc. If you are using standard, stationary eyeballs, remember to point the flow of water DOWN toward the bottom of the pool to optimize the circulation. For even better circulation, consider replacing standard directional returns with “the Circulator”.

Bring the Water Level up to normal operating level. If the water on top of the cover is relatively clean & algae free, use that water to fill the pool. It’s free! It may be a little dirty, but that’s okay, it will be treated with the rest of the pool. At this time it’s a really good idea to add either an algaecide to the water or a natural pool enzyme to start cleaning up the water and prepping it for the initial shock. If you are adding fresh tap water to top the pool off, add a good metal and mineral stain & scale control product to prevent sudden metal stains, especially iron or copper, when the pool is first shocked.

Carefully remove the winter cover. Clean it up, fold it up & store it away. When cleaning, use a good cleaner that is specifically made for cover material. A good chemical cleaning of the winter cover will lengthen the life of the cover by removing the dirt & soil from the fabric (you wouldn’t put dirty clothes away in the closet for the next season would you?)

Hook up the filter system. Properly attach the correct hoses or pipes to the proper valves or fittings on the pump and filter. Even I’ve made this mistake: the right hose goes on the wrong filter fitting & 2 weeks later, the pool is still not clear! Here’s the easiest way to remember: basket to basket (skimmer basket to pump basket) and hole to hole (exit – “to pool” – hole on filter valve or tank body to return opening on pool wall). Be sure to properly lubricate all multiport or shut-off valve “O” rings with a good silicone lubricant. Not only will you give the gasket added life, you’ll help it seal more easily too. Don’t over-tighten clamps on above ground hoses; over-tightening will often “crimp” the hose allowing air leaks. REMEMBER: replace ALL of the drain plugs to the pump, filter tank & heater (if equipped).

When starting the pump for the first time, be sure to “prime” the pump with water. Don’t start it dry, not only can harm be done to the pump, extra stress & strain is placed on the entire system. If your pump is below the water level, as on most above ground pools, priming probably isn’t necessary because the water is naturally “falling down” to the pump (gravity feed). If the pump & filter system is more than 3 ft above the water level, priming is an absolute must. Keep in mind that the system could take several minutes to “catch” and start.

SPECIAL NOTE: it is VERY normal for LOTS of bubbles to come out of the return fittings when first starting. Even for up to 24 – 36 hours, some bubbles will remain in the plumbing system while it returns to normal operation.

SPECIAL TIP: to make the filter start easier, open the “air bleeder” valve on the top of the filter tank when the filter starts. You will hear a big “whoosh” of air as it is pushed out of the filter. When water gushes out, replace or close that valve. If your filter does not have a manual air bleeder, temporarily remove the pressure gauge for the same results.

Clean & vacuum the pool of all dirt & debris. Get all of the excess stuff out of the pool before adding shock & start up algaecide, especially if the water is relatively clear & clean. The less stuff in the water, the more effective your initial shocking will be.

Clean the liner or tile line with a good quality pool surface cleaner like Off the Wall Surface Cleaner. DO NOT use household cleaners as they can affect the pH and add phosphates to the water which will contribute to algae growth later on. This is where most of the winter’s scum has left its mark. Clean it off now while it is still “soft” & easy to remove rather than when it bakes in the sun is more difficult to clean. Prevent this scum line (biofilm) from reforming with regular cleaning or by using AquaFinesse Pool Pucks.

Add your initial doses of shock & algaecide. Now you can add the chemicals! When starting, don’t skimp. Do a good “heavy” shocking and proper dosing of algaecide at opening. In the long & short run, you’re going to save a lot more money by doing this the right way. Follow the doses below.

Allow the opening or start up chemicals to circulate for 24 – 36 hours before doing any testing or water balancing. Why wait? 2 reasons:

1. Additions of Shock & algaecide will change the water chemistry and water balance. That little bit of time will allow the levels to settle back down for a more accurate reading.

2. The chemicals already in the pool water may be settled toward the bottom. This is especially true of cyanuric acid typically known as pool conditioner or stabilizer. If the water is not allowed to circulate & stir up what’s on the bottom, you will end up adding stabilizer that, more than likely, doesn’t need any additions. This is a great way to save money. By the way, NEVER add conditioner or stabilizer unless the pool water needs it and only if the test shows a level of 20 ppm or less. Stabilizer or cyanuric acid levels should be no higher than 60 ppm. Higher levels are simply wasteful and provide nothing for the water balance.

Install ladders & deck equipment. Be sure to secure tighten anchor bolts, diving board & slide anchors (if equipped). Check to make sure bolts or hardware are in good condition. Replace worn or corroded nuts & bolts for your safety.

Filter 24 hours before bringing in Opening water sample for Testing & Analysis. Adjust pH, Total Alkalinity & Calcium Hardness as needed.

Chemically clean the filter with Kleen It or Strip Kwik Filter Cleaner after 2 weeks to remove the filtered winter stuff. Chemically cleaning the filter about every 8 weeks lengthens the life of the filter media and promotes longer filter runs.

NEVER DRAIN your pool. The liner will shrink, voiding the warranty and could cause damage to your pool. In gunite, plaster, or even fiberglass pools removal of the water from the pool could result in the pool structure “floating” and causing serious damage to the structure. Always check with local builder for specific instructions.

Start up chemical doses in chlorine, bromine, ionizer, salt-chlorine pools. Shocking must be thorough in order to break up residual chloramines (combined chlorines) from winterizing. If chloramines are not dealt with now, a lingering chlorine demand (an inability to maintain a solid chlorine or bromine level) problem will develop.

Chlorine shock: un-stabilized Cal-Hypo is the preferred product to use on an initial spring shock. It gets in, oxidizes, then gets out (gasses off). Use at a rate of 3 to 5 lbs per 5,000 gallons for best results. Do NOT use a non-chlorine shock with the initial start up. Liquid chlorine bleach is OK, but is very weak (about 11%) when compared to Cal-Hypo (about 60%).

Initial Algaecide: don’t skimp with the algaecide! Always use an algaecide that has at least 30% active ingredients. Be careful using algaecides with copper as an active ingredient; improper use may lead to staining of pool surfaces. Gallon jugs of algaecide typically contain less than 10% active ingredients and are a virtual waste of money. Follow the label directions for an INITIAL dose, typically 1 – 2 quarts per 10,000 gallon.

After adding the initial shock and algaecide, be sure to run the filter for 48 to 72 hours continually. DO NOT backwash the filter during this time. Let the filter and the chemicals do the work.

Final & continuing steps: balance the water (pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness). Using additives such as borates and natural enzyme products will enhance any pool chemical care system you use. Be sure to shock the pool and add algaecide every 2 weeks to rid the pool of swimmer waste cannot be filtered out and to keep algae in check.

Spring is such a great time of year but it does bring a few seasonal “chores” and for many of us that includes the task of bringing a dormant pool back to life. Depending upon your local climate, this can be a big deal or a non-event. For the warm-weather folks that run their pumps all year long, I’ll just remind you to crank up your run times as the water gets warmer. That plus the usual advice to keep the pH in line and your filter clean. If you are lucky enough to have a salt water pool, check your salinity to see if the winter rains have diluted your salt content and add salt as required.

For the pool owners in cold climate areas, opening the pool is more involved and a great deal will depend on whether or not the pool has been covered and if the proper steps were taken at shut down time in the fall.

If your pool was nice and clean at the time of shut down, and you kept it covered over the winter, your job should be easy. My best advice has to do with the timing. Open your pool while the water is still very cool; sixty degrees or less. And most important, don’t remove the cover until you get some sanitizer in the water. It may look pretty good when you peak under the cover but there are probably a lot of microscopic algae plants just waiting for ‘ole sol to green them up. Fill your pool to the proper level, set your filter valve to “re-circulate” or “bypass” and turn on your pump. Ensure that your skimmers are free and clear and that you are getting good circulation. If you have one, turn your salt system control to 100% or hit the Super-Chlor button. After five or six hours, check your pH and balance as necessary. If you do not have a salt system, now is the time to add some chlorine. For this purpose, I like the granular Di-chlor. It is a little pricey but it will not drive you crazy trying to fix the pH. It also contains Cy-Acid, the stabilizer that will protect your chlorine from the sun when you do remove the cover. If you can feel slime on the side of your pool, I also recommend using a high-quality algaecide but only after the Di-Chlor has been in the water for eight to twelve hours.

Allow your pump to run continuously for 48 hours. Now you can remove your pool cover and turn your filter valve to the “filter” position. Continue to run your pump for another 48 hours, keeping an eye on the pressure gauge and clean the filter medium as necessary. When everything looks good, return to your normal filtration times and get ready to enjoy your pool!

This info provided by Don Uhle at PoolBids, a Houston-based company that has helped over 10,000 Americans get the swimming pool of their dreams. Their sister company, Discount Salt Pool, has also helped thousands of folks make the switch to saltwater chlorination.

Some pool owners choose to close their pool down for winter, which can mean less regular maintenance. However, winterizing swimming pools means that there are certain steps to take when re-opening the pool for spring. You should probably start the process of re-opening a few days before you want to use the swimming pool so that you can be sure the pool is ready.

1.Balance the pool water. Make sure you go through the routine efficiently: check the alkalinity, pH, and adjust accordingly. You have to start off with shocking the pool, and keep adjusting until the water is clear. While you are balancing the water, run the pump constantly at the beginning of the season until everything looks clear. Once the systemis completely balanced you can go back to running the pump for only part of the day. 2. Clean off the deck and surrounding area. You don’t want to take off the pool’s cover and clean out the pool only to have debris from its surroundings re-contaminate it. If you have water on top of your cover, remove it with a pump so that this dirty water doesn’t contaminate the pool water.

3. Clean out any debris that made it past the pool cover. You can’t properly shock the water of microorganisms if there are larger debris in the pool. Clean leaves, sticks, and other objects from the pool with a net before you get to balancing the pool water. You should clean out the skimmer basket as well.

4. Put everything back in its place. Remove any plugs, water tubes, or other tools you used to winterize. Re-install pool lights and return any other equipment back to where it goes.

5. Observe your equipment and make sure that everything is working correctly. If they weren’t drained properly, some equipment could have been damaged by frozen water or could have malfunctioned another way while the pool was on hiatus. Some equipment doesn’t run efficiently after months of not being used, so it’s important to monitor them closely.

6. Re-stock on pool chemicals and other necessary supplies. You don’t want to get re-opening in motion only to have to halt because you didn’t realize you’re out of chlorine. Make a trip or order online from a pool supply store well before you plan on re-opening so that you know you have everything you need.

It can be difficult to get back into a daily pool maintenance routine after taking the winter off, but relaxing in your pool on a hot day will make it worth the effort!

With summer close at hand, now it’s time to rethink what you’ve done for winter maintenance because what you did to prepare for winter, will make your summer pool opening that much easier.

It’s never a happy time when you close the pool for the winter but it is a necessary part of pool ownership depending on where you live. Usually once the leave change and the winds turn frigid, thoughts turn to pool closing. Your pool will only require a minimum amount of care and maintenance throughout the winter months. We offer these tips for both above ground and in ground swimming pools for winter care:

Above ground pools:

• Check periodically to make sure your pool cover is still tight. If the cover becomes loose it could slip into the pool and allow debris to fall in and could also put too much stress on the cover itself.
• Make certain the air pillows you have under the cover or the gallon jugs are still viable and doing their jobs
• Siphon the accumulated water off the pool cover when it builds up
• Check the pool water levels monthly. If the water level drops dramatically it could indicate a slow leak.

In ground pool care:

• If you are using a water tube system replace any that break during the winter. Have a few tubes handy if you need to replace them
• The tubes hold the cover and prevent the wind from blowing the cover up
• Don’t use heavy objects like bricks or lawn furniture to keep the cover in place. If the cover falls into the pool, it could drag those items in and damage the pool
• Siphon off any standing water off of the pool cover

General swimming pool winter cover care:

• Check the tightness of the straps on your pool cover and adjust them as needed
• The pool water level should be kept at or below the skimmer when in use but in the winter the water level should not be any lower than 18″ from the top of the pool. Add water as necessary to keep it at that level
• Check the “look” and clarity of your pool water. If it starts to look swampy it will necessitate and earlier than usual opening so you can address the build up of algae.

Taking care of a swimming pool is a year-round task but once summer rolls around and you and your family are spending hours frolicking in it, you’ll be thrilled you own one.

Sometimes things don’t go so smoothly after you open your pool.  Here are some common problems and what actions you should take:

1. Obvious drips coming from filter tank, pump or visible pipes.

• Try tightening the fittings.  If you cannot get leaks to stop, contact a local pool professional.

1. Sand in pool under or near the return jets.

• This may mean the pool has an underground pipe leak or, if you have a sand filter, it could mean that something in the sand filter is cracked.  If you are loosing water as well, we suggest contacting a local pool professional.  If you are not losing water, then take apart the sand filter and look for a cracked part.

1. DE in pool under or near the return jets.

• This means that there is something in the DE filter that is ripped or cracked.   Take the filter apart and look for cracked part or ripped element.

1. DE filter isn’t putting out enough water pressure and/or isn’t effectively filtering the pool.

• You should backwash the filter immediately.  Add new DE.  If problem persists, filter may be in need of an “acid wash”.  If you do not know how to do this, we suggest contacting a local pool professional.

1. Sand filter isn’t putting out enough water pressure and/or isn’t effectively filtering the pool.

• You should backwash the filter immediately.  If problem persists, filter may be in need of a sand change.  If you do not know how to do this, we suggest contacting a local pool professional.

1. You notice many air bubbles mixing with the water coming out of the return jets.

• Probably means that there is a suction line leak, usually under or by the skimmers.   You could try digging down and see what you can see, but we suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this !

1. You notice settled or wet dirt.  You see bricks or patio blocks around the skimmers or return jets settling or sinking into the ground.

• Probably means an underground pipe leak at that point.  You could try digging down and see what you can see, but we suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this !

1. Pump makes a loud squealing noise, it heats up or is not running to its full capability.

• This indicates that the pump is in need of professional service.  Either remove it and bring it to a pool store or pump shop for repair – or replace the pump.

1. You notice that your pool is losing water…

• If the pool water level goes down to the bottom of the skimmer and stops, this usually means that it is a suction line leak, most likely directly under the skimmer.  We suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this !
• If the pool water level goes down to the bottom of the return jets and then stops, this usually means that it is a return line leak, most likely directly by the wall jet return fitting – but it could be anywhere in the return line.  We suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this !
• If the pool water level goes down to the top, middle or bottom of the light unit,  this usually means that the light is leaking.   This is usually the fitting in the light niche where the metal or plastic conduit pipe is attached to the metal niche.  We suggest contacting a local pool professional to repair something like this !
• If the water level goes down to any other level on the side walls and then stops, this usually means that the leak is in the liner on the pool side wall or possibly in the step unit gasket.  Inspect the pool visually around the water level and check to see if you can see a hole.  Check the area where the LADDER comes in contact with the liner.  This is a very common leak point !   If you cannot clearly see a leak hole, we suggest contacting a local pool professional to locate & repair the leak.
• If the water level goes down past they side walls, then it usually means that the leak is in the pool floor.  This is bad!  You do not want all the water to drain out of the pool.  It is bad for the liner and very bad for the pool walls – you do not want the pool to fall in !  If you see that you are quickly losing all the water in your pool, put a hose in the pool, start to refill it and contact a local pool professional to locate & patch the hole.

The Ph level of your swimming pool is one thing you indisputably want to keep an in depth eye on. Each and every week you must be the use of a checking out kit so you know what the degrees are. Ideally you need them to be as close to 7.2 as possible. Then again, the rest in the range of 7.0 to 7.6 is deemed as acceptable and you received’t need to do anything else about it. On the other hand, if the level is simply too top or too low than you wish to have to stability it out by adding quite a lot of chemicals.

If the quantity is under 7.zero then it is regarded as to be too acidic. If the volume is above 7.6 then it is considered to be alkaline. There are lots of results that may happen when the Ph level isn’t balanced. You don’t want to permit this situation go because it will probably cause a few belongings you aren’t going to wish to deal with.

While there may be too much acid within the water it can result in injury in your swimming pool. It is going to depend on the kind of materials your pool is made from. Those from plaster are the most vulnerable to the damages. Although you’ll’t readily see the damage taking place it is there. As a substitute of having a smooth surface there might be tiny groves forming. In those groves bacteria and algae have a great probability of forming. Because of this you’ll in finding it becomes increasingly tricky to stay your swimming poolclean adore it will have to be.

The acid may even result in any sorts of metal you’ve gotten within the swimming pool to corrode. This can include fittings, ladders, or even the connectors to yourpump. This corrosion can have an effect on the way in which this stuff are compatible as it will make them weaker. Eventually you’ll have to substitute them. You’ll additionally to find our swimming pool is extra susceptible to stains due to the sulphate that is released. These stains will also be brown, black, or reddish and they will undoubtedly stand out affecting the overall beauty of your pool.

An excessive amount of acid will absorb the chlorine you put in the water too. This implies it’s going to develop into cloudy and more algae and bacteria can form .You will understand a robust scent of chlorine even though less of it’s present. This is what will account for burning eyes and the surface drying out. Too many house owners assume they wish to add increasingly chlorine however the issue is really the acid due to the fallacious Ph level.

There are consequences whilst the Ph degree is too alkaline as well. The similar results can occur in connection with the eyes burning and the skin drying out. So if you have these symptoms it’s wise to instantly check the Ph levels within thepool. The swimming pool will even turn out to be very dirty because some of the chlorine you installed it will grow to be ineffective. In reality it is important to upload 8 instances the normal amount to get the similar results when the Ph level is just too alkaline. The water shall be very cloudy and that is one thing that makes it very unappealing.

Calcium increase will consequence too and that can lead to various forms of stains. In case you don’t take care of it you’ll understand black stains growing alongside the water line throughout your swimming pool. If in case you have a sand clear out you are going to to find it doesn’t paintings like it should. The calcium will result in the sand changing into heavier than it will have to so it may possibly’t filter out properly.

As you’ll be able to see, the Ph level in the swimming pool may be very important. If it is too high or too low you’re going to have all kinds of issues to deal with. Make sure to take a look at this each and every single week to be able to offset any possible problems from occurring. Effective maintenance is less expensive and efficient than having to maintain one downside after every other because you didn’t do it.

DEAR BARRY: Two years ago, we bought a home with a backyard pool. Then, a few months ago, the county posted a violation notice on our front door for an expired pool permit.

The previous homeowner, who was also the contractor for the pool, pulled the pool permit, completed the construction, but never called for an inspection. It cost us $2,000 for the late penalties, some corrective work and the final inspections. The seller never disclosed that the pool was not signed off. Do we have recourse to recover our costs? –Dorene

DEAR DORENE: If the seller was a licensed contractor and did not disclose that a permit was not signed off, he is in violation of two laws: the state disclosure law for sellers and the laws that regulate contractors.

You should not have to pay fines to the county because you were not responsible for the violation. The seller should be notified by certified mail immediately. If he does not respond, you should file a complaint with the state agency that licenses contractors. You can also file an action in small claims court. But before you take any legal action, get some advice from an attorney.